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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.